The bodice is boned, and has the Haute Couture House belting with the name woven in…A.E. Lelong, 18 Place de la Madeleine, Paris. The House of Lelong in Paris was, at the time this gown was made, THE designer house of choice for many of the richest and most famous women in Paris and in the world. Colette mentioned in her 1908 novel that Lelong was “The Label of the Moment”. Owned by Lucien Lelong’s parents, designers Arthur and Eleonore…., the house was firmly established by the time young Lucien Lelong was already designing and sketching for the House. By 1909 he had already completely re- decorated his parent’s salon in almost totally black colored walls, rugs, and flooring (in 1909), and began to sketch and be lauded for his fashion sense. While his initials are not yet woven in his family’s beltings and labels, he was indeed in residence at the Salon at the time this gown was made, already working on his first collections. This certainly has led many to speculate the amount that Lucien himself have had to do with this particular gown’s actual design and construction. We may never know, but the fact remains he must have had some influences on this exact gown.
Lelong Black Silk and Lace Gown